What's That Smell? OUD

In the "What's That Smell?" series,  I'll explain some of the less obvious perfume notes that crop up in many indie perfumes. Keep in mind my descriptions and comparisons are based on my own experiences and your impressions may not be the same. Perfume notes are NOT ingredients. They can be natural essences, artificial isolated compounds that imitate the natural substance, blended accords, or a combination. Therefore, the note you like in one perfume may be unrecognizable in another. As with all sensory, subjective things, your mileage may vary.

Oud, oudh, oude...however you spell it, it's a powerhouse note. It's one of those smells I think people don't realize they love until they've smelled it a few times. Personally, I even find my favorite oud perfumes will smell strange or off-putting on first application, then blossom into their true selves after a few minutes up to an hour. For that reason, oud can be intimidating, but I promise if you give it a shot, you'll find its richness and complexity superior to any other wood note.

Oud is bold and wet (ha.) It's not a well-behaved, smooth wooden scent like sandalwood or cedar. It can smell like bandaids or wood varnish at first, with a strange, almost animalic, tangled wildness. When I smell oud, I think of old wooden furniture that's gotten a little damp in storage, mixed with a sharp smokiness that gives a strong, black tangy smell. It sounds very unappealing when put this way, but the most "unsavory" notes are truly the ones that yield the complex, gorgeous richness that keeps a perfume from being a plain and boring scent. Oud can be used in small amounts or large, to great effect, but keep in mind if you're sampling an oud heavy perfume, you should reserve judgment until after the drydown.

Oud will generally retain its dark smoky character, but will lighten with wear. Instead of staying black and damp, it will warm up, round out, and glow. It's an immersive type of smell- imagine sitting on wooden furniture in a wood-shop, constructed entirely of wood, in the middle of the forest. Just the richest, most evocative woodsy smell. It pairs exceptionally well with any other wood note for added complexity, vanilla (always), and lighter notes like tea or fruit that need grounding.

In general, I believe Solstice Scents, Arcana, NAVA, and Possets do the best job showcasing oud and using it in interesting ways. Cocoa Pink gets an honorary mention for including it in unexpected fragrances with great results. 

Perfumes featuring oud:

• Arcana Honey & Venom: Here, oud is at its most stinky, debaucherous, and intimidating. The honey and amber notes are syrupy and rich, which, far from tempering the oud, just encourage its brashness. You have to be careful with this scent- not joking one tiny drop will last days and days. I have a sweater I wore that smelled of H&V for two months after I wore it one day. But if you're one for lusty, rich scents, you can't get much better than this oud and honey blend with spicy smokiness. 
• Solstice Scents Thornwood Thicket: The oud in this scent is barely recognizable. It's tame, warm, woodsy, and easy to love. It lends a real, sun-warmed feel to the woodsy, brambly scent. The juicy blackberry notes are made darker and more realistic with the dark botanical oud backing them up. Please note that TT is a seasonal fragrance in perfume oil. It's available in EDP form, but is only available as an oil in autumn.
• Possets Silver Oude: Possets' silver note, which is a delicate vanilla musk, does a great job of taming, but not strangling, its oud partner in this scent. If you've smelled Solstice Scents Manor, this is a very similar scent, but I prefer the Possets version because it has more richness and heart, where Manor can smell thin on me. The oud is slick and cool here because the silver note amps up that dampness I mentioned. Although there is a spicy bite, it's not too smoky. The cool musky vanilla sweetens it up very well and gives it a creaminess that oud doesn't have alone. This is a seasonal Yule scent.

Comparison Post: Pumpkin #7 vs. Golden Morning

In comparison posts, I compare indie scents with similar notes lists. This allows me to cull my collection so that I have no repeats, and it may also be helpful for other people to decide which sounds most appealing.

The Contestants: 

Nocturne Alchemy Pumpkin #7 (Amber Pumpkin perfumed with 7 rich exotic Amber notes to create the ultimate Amber perfume base for this Pumpkin infused scent. Spices of fig and raw pumpkin swim in a vat of decadent Sandalwood)

Cocoa Pink Golden Morning (Cool vanilla wrapped around honeyed, pale pumpkin gently grounded with white oak, tonka bean finished with the barest hint of copal.)

Scent Characteristics: P#7 is woodsy, smooth, pale, and warm like a house with a fire crackling in the hearth. It's more sweet-wood than sticky-resin, and the amber notes here are powdery and dry like finished wood, and they complement the sandalwood perfectly. Tiny bit of spice, but not edible spice. This is a slightly fresh smell, like fresh pumpkin and sawn wood, but not "raw" smelling. GM is syrupy, resinous, and slinky. It's mostly a very golden, sticky honey note with complementary deeper resinous wood notes. The pumpkin is there, smooth and non-spicy, but like cooked pumpkin purée.  

How similar are they?: Not very. P#7 is a lot subtler and more neutral. GM is vivacious, sexy, and sweet. P#7 makes me think of a buttoned-up but pretty librarian, and GM is her younger sister who dresses very scandalously. They're related but they don't really resemble each other. They do share a common pale, sweet, smooth pumpkin note that's delicious in both, and the wood pops out of both, but it's made more dry in P#7 and more wet/sticky in GM.

Sillage: Both have very good sillage. Something that's characteristic of NAVA ambers in particular is that they will strengthen the more they sit on your skin. Sometimes I can't smell a NAVA amber when I first apply, then 10 minutes later, it's surrounding me and filling my nostrils. I will say it's hard to overdo a NAVA Amber, and P#7 is no exception. It's so pale and smooth that it never screams, even if you overapply. On the other hand, GM's big honey note has POW sillage and really wraps itself around you immediately. You can overdose easily, especially as it's a sweet scent, so best to apply sparingly. I love strongly-scented perfumes, so I'm definitely ok with that, but use caution.

Longevity: Both have great longevity. P#7 lasts 8-10 hours, no problem, but it does dry down into a more subtle skin scent thereafter. GM will last until you wash it off, or 36-48 hours, whichever comes first. 

Destashing any?: Nope, they are different and both lovely. GM is the perfect cold-weather sexy scent. Not too foodie, but just sweet enough. P#7 is an amazing daytime scent, and even though it's a pumpkin one, it's not so bold as to be an autumn-only scent. 

Deconstructing Eden These Are the Days of Wine and Honey Review

Brand: Deconstructing Eden
Availability: General Catalog
Notes: The last of the sunflowers, rich honey and beeswax, tolu balsam, tonka bean, cedar, liatrix, palo santo wood, elemi essential oil, silky musk and of course, a splash of wine

First impression out of bottle: Dark sweetness

Freshly applied: Grape cough syrup/Flintstones vitamins

Drydown: Mm this is kind of swelling up and getting more voluptuous. DE scents tend to do that if they smell sharp at first. I'm getting a bit of citrus, a REALLY silky musk that smells almost like velvet, some woodsy brown notes, a bit of tobacco (liatrix is in the tobacco family), and a very sweet pinky red wine note. I can't say this reads super honeyed to me. It's more warm, golden, and like fresh beeswax. 

After several hours: This scent smells very reddish-pink to me like a beautiful sunset. The harsh grape notes are gone and it's a pinky red golden scent, like warm fabric and smooth wine. This scent is languorous, luxurious, sexy in a bohemian way without relying on spice, incense, or patchouli. 

Longevity: High
Sillage: Medium

Would an [X] lover love this? If you love wine scents, this is a really special, not-too-literal sweet wine scent with great honey and wood accents.

Would an [X] hater love this? I think even if you're not a huge fan of alcoholic or wine scents, this captures the warmth and color of a glass of wine without the harshness or the weirdness of wearing a scent inspired by alcohol.

Where am I? Lying in a field of warm golden grass, surrounded by friends drinking and eating.

Where would I wear this? Daytime, nighttime, summer, autumn, weekend. Probably not work although it doesn't actually smell like wine. But it gives me a really calm, afternoon-nap feeling which is not optimal for a workday.

Deconstructing Eden Shemhazai Review

Brand: Deconstructing Eden
Availability: General Catalog
Notes: Frankincense, myrrh, French cypress, saffron, bergamot, teak wood, black pepper, sage, mahogany and oak moss.

First impression out of bottle: Frankincense and myrrh.

Freshly applied: Fruity green resins. Myrrh has kind of a warm, honeyed fruit thing going on, whereas frankincense has that green, almost pine-like aroma. I definitely smell the black pepper but it's not too much. 

Drydown: Still bright and evergreen-y from the cypress. This smells a little fresh and green but also woodsy and brown. I would say this is a unisex scent.  It smells like expensive aftershave. Very sexy and warm but fresh at the same time.

Smells like a wet Darcy drying in the warm sun.

After several hours: Warm woodsy coniferous scent. Less herbal and complex than Deconstructing Eden Mercutio, and a bit damper.

Longevity: High
Sillage: Medium

Would an [X] lover love this? If you like evergreen/pine/cypress scents then you will love this. Or if you are a sucker for frankincense/myrrh combos, this is one of the best greenish ones I've tried. 

Would an [X] hater love this? If you hate fresh scents, this has a warm undertone that makes it more wearable and not so EVERGREEN. The pepper is very subtle and just underscores the warmth along with the sage, so you don't end up smelling like roast chicken.

Where am I? Playing in a cypress grove on a warm day after taking a dip in a lagoon.

Where would I wear this? Daytime, outside, spring, summer, maybe into colder weather. I think this would be amazing on a man, and I don't love it as much on me because I go for sweeter florals.

Deconstructing Eden Haunted Review

Brand: Deconstructing Eden
Availability: General Catalog
Notes: Ghostly roses, ethereal lilacs and wisteria. Pale, pale Asian lilies on a soft bed of delicate woods and ambergris.

First impression out of bottle: Ladylike lilies and lilac

Freshly applied: Very lush white lilies. My dad hates the scent of lilies because they remind him of funerals, but I don't necessarily have that association. To me, lilies are very rich but also very clean. They remind me of expensive hotel bathrooms. 

Drydown: Yep, still a bit bathroom-y. I don't think it's super soapy necessarily, but that clean scent just makes me think of bathrooms. I get the lilac and the wisteria, but I think those aren't helping the issue. It's a little old lady-ish but also a little soapy/not rich enough. It's not really giving me a ghostly impression, it's just like a ritzy hotel powder room.

After several hours: Same white clean floral lily scent.

Longevity: High
Sillage: High

Would an [X] lover love this? I think if you love the scent of lilies, you will really enjoy this. I love wisteria and lilac but they don't save the fragrance for me.

Would an [X] hater love this? I think if you are not a fan of funereal type flowers, this will definitely offend your sensibilities.

Where am I? Pink ladies' powder room.

Where would I wear this? To have afternoon tea. Daytime, spring, summer.

Deconstructing Eden Catherine de Medici Review

Brand: Deconstructing Eden
Availability: General Catalog
Notes: Oakmoss, precious woods, spices and cinnamon in the base. Ripe peaches, jasmine sambac and roses in the heart and top notes of very understated citrus and bergamot.

First impression out of bottle: Cranapple cocktail juice

Freshly applied: White floral room spray, peach brandy, and cinnamon

Drydown: The moss is more apparent now. It smells like an autumnal table decoration with dried moss, spices, and some fruits scattered around. I would say the spicy green moss is the strongest note at this point. The peach takes on a more peach-gummy feeling and settles into the background along with the jasmine. Part of me likes this and part of me thinks this smells like a crafts store in September! I think this would be an awesome room scent, but I don't know that I want to smell like it.

After several hours: Still similar to the original drydown, but the peach comes back a little more. I get a bit of fragrant wood now and some voluptuous sweet jasmine. Kind of weird because I definitely don't associate jasmine with autumn, but it's also kind of interesting. This is now a peach/jasmine/oakmoss/wood scent with a very small hint of cinnamon but not too much. 

Longevity: High
Sillage: Medium

Would an [X] lover love this? If you like jasmine, this is a bizarre but really pretty and unexpected take on it. This is a really cool dry oakmoss scent, so if you are looking for a sweet, dry oakmoss thing this would be great.

Would an [X] hater love this? I think if you hate moss notes, this will be too dusty/mossy for you. The peach and jasmine are really pretty but subtle in here so they may not redeem the scent for you.

Where am I? At a pumpkin patch/hay festival. Wearing jasmine perfume. 

Where would I wear this? Maybe to carve pumpkins. It has a really weird feel like I could ONLY wear it on the hot Indian Summer days of September/early October and NO OTHER TIME of the year. 

Deconstructing Eden Be My Druidess Review

Brand: Deconstructing Eden
Availability: General Catalog
Notes: Incense, woods, tree moss, light and dark musks and a smokey fire.

First impression out of bottle: Musky sweet smoke

Freshly applied: Musky sweet smokiness! Like a non-foodie Solstice Scents Smoky Mountain Mallow. 

Drydown: Oh lord this is heavenly. I am usually not a huge fan of musks, but the smooth silky musks here are bolstered with the most heavenly sweet fiery smoke note and a hint of woods. It's a sweet scent, but like I said, not at all on the vanilla/marshmallow end of the spectrum. More like amber/resin and sweet burning incense. I love how balanced the smoke and incense notes are. It's not acrid like you swallowed a lungful of campfire smoke, but it IS dark and a bit ashy. But then that's mixed with an almost syrupy musky resin note and something like spiced wood.

After several hours: Same weaving mixture of smoke and musk-resin with incense.

Longevity: High
Sillage: High

Would an [X] lover love this? This is like THE ultimate incense/resin scent. I'm a fanatic about my smoky and incense smells and this is a seriously absurdly good version. It's a burning-incense smell, so you get the smoke and the body of the incense. It smells like the smoke, plus the air that's being fragranced, plus the actual incense sticks. It's sweet but not at all gourmand.

Would an [X] hater love this? If you despise smoke/wood/resin scents I think this is going to push all your buttons. I can see it being a touch too resinous for you especially if you gravitate to fresher scents. But if you only dislike smoke scents, this is a subtle and wearable smoke.

Where am I? Burning sacred incense in a temple

Where would I wear this? I'm a hoor for incense, so I consider this an all-weather all-occasion scent. Sweet enough for daytime, smoky enough for nighttime. But if you are more conservative about your incense scents, I'd say to be safe, wear this on a date or to a party.

Solstice Scents Heart of the Night Review

Brand: Solstice Scents
Availability: General Catalog
Notes: Moroccan & Bulgarian Rose, Chocolate, Vanille, EoTN Base (Edge of the Night Base: blend of amber, oakmoss, aged patchouli, bergamot, black vanilla, a touch of red musk and buddha wood and a delicate blend of organic clove EO, star anise EO and cinnamon)

First impression out of bottle: Soft rose like in Rose Mallow Cream.

Freshly applied: Sweet lush red roses and chocolate.

Drydown: This is like a more assertive version of Rose Mallow Cream, with a kick of sexy amber and spice. It's like Rose Mallow Cream was Sandra Dee at the beginning of Grease and then morphed into Heart of the Night (all-leather-clad Sandy at the end of Grease.) There's the teensiest bit of chocolate, but not much. The chocolate keeps darting in and out but it's not a major player.

Incredibly lush sexy rose

After several hours: Still sexy creamy rose with hints of cocoa. Lovely amber and spice base which becomes dominant after a few hours (as in all SS Night perfumes.)

Longevity: Medium
Sillage: Medium

Would an [X] lover love this? I think a rose lover would fall in love with this. I was expecting a deeper, richer chocolate scent but after it dried I didn't get any. So chocolate lovers would be disappointed.

Would an [X] hater love this? Rose haters would probably dislike this, unless they had only smelled very powdery/fake roses. But if you dislike Rose Mallow Cream, chances are you will not enjoy this.

Where am I? Laying in a bed of rose petals

Where would I wear this? Nighttime, date, but it would be good for daytime too. It's honestly not that strong or brash, just very lush and pretty.

Cocoa Pink Cozy Cabin In the Woods Review

Brand: Cocoa Pink
Availability: General Catalog Autumn/Winter (N/A in Spring/Summer)
Notes: White Cedar trees heavily laden with soft piles of snow, sweet sandalwood, crackling freshly chopped firewood roaring from inside the glowing fireplace with the heavenly aromas of creamy sugared vanilla and gingerbread floating through the air.

First impression out of bottle: Cedar and pine

Freshly applied: Wooo hickory wood and pine. Almost like BBQ smoke (but not too smokey, just that same sweet savory thing.) Then pine pops out, it's really green and sappy. Almost makes me think of citronella. 

Citronella candles

Drydown: Yes, still citronella, but overlaid on really sweet warm woodsy notes. I can't decide if I like this because...it's basically citronella and woods. Oh god do I LIKE smelling like citronella?

After several hours: Sweet, piney woods, smoke, and citronella. I'm disappointed I get no  really distinct/differentiated foodie notes, but honestly the combination smells really good. I think the gingerbread and vanilla must be tempering the sharper notes, because it all smells awesome.

Longevity: High
Sillage: Medium

Would an [X] lover love this? This is weird, so even if you like woodsy scents, proceed with caution.

Would an [X] hater love this? If you hate smoke, fresh wood scents, and citronella, then this will probably be like death to you.

Where am I? For some reason, burning citronella in midwinter.

Where would I wear this? Camping, outdoors, daytime, nighttime. It's weird but I like it.

Cocoa Pink Winchester House Kitchen Review

Brand: Cocoa Pink
Availability: General Catalog Autumn/Winter (N/A in Spring/Summer)
Notes: The distinct aroma of autumn in the Winchester house kitchen with notes of aged oak, fresh baked pumpkin pie, 5 fold orange essential oil coated in the warm essence of light muscovado sugar, fresh ginger, sticky gobs of benzoin, warm buttery caramel simmering on the stovetop and just the barest hint of clove.

First impression out of bottle: Crystallized ginger

Freshly applied: Whoa knock you down crystallized sweet ginger mixed with fresh citrusy ginger. 

Drydown: There's a hint of oak playing around with the ginger scent. This is such a fresh and zesty scent- it makes me think of an Asian spa, not a warm haunted kitchen. I can sort of smell the sugary bits trying to get out, but it's still overwhelmingly a fresh ginger scent. I think the orange essential oil is helping that zestiness be at the forefront. 

After several hours: Mostly wood now with some hints of ginger. I honestly never smell any of the other dessert scents.

Longevity: High
Sillage: Medium

Would an [X] lover love this? Fresh ginger lovers need this- it's not your powdered spice cabinet ginger.

Would an [X] hater love this? Ginger haters will despise this, and citrus haters too. 

Where am I? Smells like you used ginger-based organic room cleaner to clean out an old wooden house. The smell of ginger kind of lingers in a pleasant, clean way but isn't overpowering. 

Where would I wear this? Daytime, to clean the house, work, a brisk fall day that's not too cold yet.

Solstice Scents Smokewood Apiary Review

Brand: Solstice Scents
Availability: General Catalog
Notes: Smoked Honey, Creamed Honey, Beeswax, Amber, Wooden Frames, Ginger & Vanilla (VEGAN, only synthetic beeswax/honey notes)

First impression out of bottle: Blackened BBQ smoke.

Freshly applied: On first application, this is like the blackened char on really good BBQ ribs + smooth creamy honey. It's not meaty or savory but it's smokey and not too syrupy. 

Sweet BBQ scent

Drydown: Pure honey + dry wood and a whisper of smoke. That "wooden frames" they describe is absolutely apparent, it's a soft dry neutral wood like split planks on a homestead. I just sniffed my wrist and accidentally bonked my nose and ACTUALLY felt a ghost of "stickiness" as if I had real honey on my wrist. There's something about this honey that's fresh but warm, it has that tinkling high crystalline note of good fresh honey when you inhale it. No flower notes or grassiness. The smoke, which is prominent at first, fades to be a nice ashy note but it isn't like WOAH smoke after a few minutes

Pure honey with a gorgeous pale wood note

After several hours: Still mostly the same as initial drydown. I love the multiple honey notes because I get ALL OF IT, crystallized, liquid, and creamed honey all in one. It's like a combo of honeycomb and beeswax, very realistic. There's still a touch of dark resinous smoke, but nothing overwhelming. I have to say I love the smokey beginnings but I'm grateful the smoke dissipates quickly, because this quickly becomes a true rich natural honey, and I can always add smokiness back in using an incense note or my SS Whispers in the Night. I think the ginger in here adds to the realism of the honey, but it's not noticeable as a standalone note, and same goes for the vanilla.

Fresh, gooey, waxy honeycomb

Longevity: High, I can smell this all day with only a dab.
Sillage: High, I get comments when I hug people but also when they walk by.

Would an [X] lover love this? Yes, I have tried SO many honey scents, mainstream and indie, and this is the best of the best. Honey lovers need it.

Would an [X] hater love this? I don't know. It all depends on why you dislike honey. Maybe your skin chemistry turns it cat piss-y, or plasticky. In that case, give it a try because my skin chemistry does similar things with other honey perfumes. If you just don't like the smell of real honey, then maybe don't try it.

Where am I? It reminds me of those pioneer/colonial reenactment villages where you go on school trips (or, as I did, on one single weird date) and see the actors tending to beehives, making bread, and sweeping up hearths in linen dresses and bobbin caps. 

Colonial village honey

Where would I wear this? This is equally good for daytime or night, as it's a little sexy and warm but not too heavy. It's wonderful as a summer perfume, and transitions nicely into the autumn months.

Solstice Scents Maplewood Inn

Brand: Solstice Scents
Availability: General Catalog
Notes: Maple, Woods, Amber, Benzoin, A Roaring Fire & A Hot Cup Of Frothy Vanilla Chai

First impression out of bottle: Liquid smoke/and candied maple bacon. 

Smoky maple syrup

Freshly applied: Same blackened smoke and maple candy.

Drydown: Maple fades a bit from initial prominence but is still there. The woods and smoke come forward and I get a beautiful resinous cedar/redwood. I detect the spicy vanilla chai as well, it reminds me of Sycamore Chai.

Woodsy smoke and sweet chai tea

After several hours: Still beautiful, smoky sweet woods. The astringent red wood you get in Solstice Scents Attic is here, but sweetened up with a dollop of maple sugar and some chai. This reminds me a lot of Deep Midnight A Study in Brown, but with a maple spice character.

Imagine drinking a cup of chai and snacking on maple candy here

Longevity: High, this lasts from the morning till late at night, even with multiple hand washings. If you loved SS Sycamore Chai but hated that it faded so quickly, pick this one up.
Sillage: Also very high, this creates a beautiful spiced foody woodsmoke cloud. I love how strongly this smells.

Would an [X] lover love this? Anyone who likes spice or wood scents definitely needs this. And if you think it smells too bacon-y at first, let it age a few weeks. You'll be shocked at how gentle and gorgeous the woodsmoke becomes.

Would an [X] hater love this? This is quite sweet and spicy, so those of you who dislike woodsy or autumnal scents might not enjoy it. I think it's quite a balanced and original scent though, so if you're afraid of smelling generic, give this a shot.

Where am I? Sitting in a ski lodge, drinking maple chai next to a roaring fire.

Where would I wear this? I wear this to work (but am careful to limit the amount I wear) and it's not too smoky/sexy for daytime. It would be amazing as a nighttime scent in cold weather though. Definitely more suited to autumn/winter than the warmer months.

NAVA Black Santalum Cider

Brand: Nocturne Alchemy/NAVA
Availability: Limited Edition Halloween 2015
Notes: Rich Black Sandalwood drizzled into an old oak barrel found just outside deserted castle and filled with sticks of cinnamon, tart apple slices, cardamom and nutmeg.

First impression out of bottle: Beautiful dark cloudy apple cider, like the fresh-pressed cider you can buy from the farmer's market.

Mmmm, fresh apple cider

Freshly applied: Something a little more resinous and perfumey is peeking out to complement the bold apple cider scent. Love that the spice in this isn’t your generic Autumn Spice blend. It’s infused in the murky brown apple cider. I can tell my beloved Santalum is in here somewhere, but it’s not a woodsy scent right now. There’s a hint, like I said, of gorgeous resin that’s swelling and making the apple cider more interesting, but it’s not reading as WOOD at the moment. 

Drydown: Simply gorgeous, resinous apple cider scent with some deep blackened-brown notes lurking under the dark gorgeous apple. The Santalum note is coming out now, drier and more golden than the resiny note alone. At first it smelled like just straight apple cider from a mug, and now it smells like the cider plus the barrel it was brewed in.

Dark, resinous woodsy cider

After several hours: Resinous, a hint of cool murky apple cider, and a very blackened feel. This is resin-woodsy but not plain-woodsy. 

Longevity: High
Sillage: Medium

Would an [X] lover love this? Apple lovers NEED THIS. The apple cider scent is perfectly complemented by the wood and resin notes, so it's not a fleeting shower-gel apple, but a real murky juicy apple that lasts and lasts.

Would an [X] hater love this? This is a definite realistic apple cider scent, but it smells wet and juicy and earthy, not like a generic apple spice perfume. If you have a grudge against fall perfumes because they smell like a Yankee Candle store to you, this one might surprise you.

Where am I? I'm sitting in a cider house, smelling the pressed apple juice and old wooden beams. I’m perched on an oak barrel getting drunk off of spiced cider.

Where would I wear this? Work, weekend, autumn, winter. It's surprisingly elegant, but definitely not a sexy/girly perfume. Probably wouldn't wear for a date. 

Solstice Scents Shadows in the Night Review

Brand: Solstice Scents
Availability: General Catalog
Notes: White Amber, Fir, Frankincense, Elemi, Bayberry, Spruce, Amber, Evergreens, Peppermint, Incense, EotN Base

First impression out of bottle: Spruce and something soft and sweet

Freshly applied: The peppermint blends seamlessly with the evergreen notes and I love the sweet, almost fruity feel. It's not a harsh or cold pine scent, it's quite gentle.

Evergreen and bayberry

Drydown: A little less of the round fruity sweetness, more spruce emerges, like you're taking a big whiff of a Christmas tree. But the roundness in the background (which is definitely from the amber and vanilla from the Edge of the Night base) remains and gets a little spicier., but not too literal. This is not foodie, but the gentle vanilla and spice smell like the memory of baked goods.

Quite a gentle pine scent

After several hours: Less green, more soft Edge of the Night (amber, vanilla, spice). Peppermint is a fleeting note, so I'm not surprised it doesn't stick around. The evergreen notes last longer, and though they're not as prominent, the whole thing is still an evergreen-amber. Not pure sweetness, because there's green edge.

Warm golden Christmas tree scent, the faint smell of baked goods

Longevity: A little short-lived, better than bright/grassy green scents, but still not as long-lasting as a sugary vanilla scent. When I wear this I find myself reapplying it, because I love the opening/first hour or two of the scent so much that I want to experience it over and over.
Sillage: Medium-high at first, then low for the majority of its life. I can slather this on and still get a pretty subtle scent. 

Would an [X] lover love this? I think people who are a fan of evergreen scents will like this softer, more feminine take on what is traditionally a masculine family of scents. I personally like everything that Solstice Scents does with amber/vanilla/spice, but I have heard multiple people claim the sweeter blends smell like Christmas candles on them. 

Would an [X] hater love this? Yes, this is a great introduction for a green-hater. I personally count myself as someone who doesn't like vegetal/green scents, so this was a good way to ease my way into the wintry evergreen scents without feeling like I was wearing Winter's Breeze For Men or something. If you like foodie scents and don't see yourself loving woodsy or green ones, try this and you might be surprised how well the spruce notes are incorporated!

Where am I? This is not a foodie scent, but it does remind me of my parents' house at Christmas. A bit of spicy pine cone and spruce from the decorations, mingled with a soft sweet smell like a really high-end fruitcake. This smells like the cold air outside mixed with the warmth from the fire, a Christmas tree, spicy decorative pinecones, and a spread of Christmas cookies in the other room. I adore this scent.

Where would I wear this? I wear this to work and at home. I wear it a lot during the summer actually, although it's also fantastic for the wintertime. I find it's versatile even though it's so Christmassy. The fresh green notes make it light enough for hot weather, and the fact that it's subtle means nobody is sniffing the air and asking why it smells like Christmas.

Deep Midnight A Study in Brown Review

Brand: Deep Midnight
Availability: General Catalog
Notes: A scented story of aromatic copal, nutty tonka bean, oak wood smoke, and toasted sugar

First impression out of bottle: Smoky wood and sugar

Freshly applied: You can taste the crunchy brown sugar crystals, which are sweetening up the gorgeous resinous wood notes. There's also strong smoke here. It smells like a very sweet and smoky version of Solstice Scents' Attic. It has that same resiny astringency that I love, but overlaid with a toasted sugar topping.

Like this, but with sugar

Drydown: This gets less sugary as it dries, and more nutty. The tonka is a great note here that's sort of surprising. It's not sweet but it's a bit earthy in a non-woodsy way. This starts to smell more like slightly sweet toasted nuts, resin, wood, and a hint of clingy woodsmoke.

Smoky toasted nuts

After several hours: Same as above. This gets to be faint after a few hours, but is a scent that clings nonetheless. 

Longevity: High, but the sillage fades later
Sillage: Very high at first, moderate amount of time with high sillage, then toward the 8 hour mark, this fades to a whispery light scent

Would an [X] lover love this? I think any fan of woodsy perfumes would love this. It has the characteristic astringency and wood notes that someone who loves cedar, pine, redwood, teak, oud, or mahogany would like. The smoke is just enough to make you think of a forest, not like an actual fire. The sweetness never crosses over into being too girly, I can see this on a man or a woman.

Would an [X] hater love this? I think even people who are frightened of woodsy scents or find them too assertive would love this. It's playful, a little lilting and charming, not super straightforward or bold. It's got strong, assertive notes, but it's a little sweet and fuzzy around the edges. I think this is a beginner-friendly scent, especially for a man who isn't accustomed to wearing perfumes.

Where am I? t makes me think of your hot lumberjack boyfriend who comes in from the cold with his flannel shirt stinking of wood and smoke. Then he eats a plate of cookies, and you wear the flannel the next day and it's a beautiful mix of earthy natural notes and sweet gourmand.

Where would I wear this? Work, home, weekdays. It's not quite sexy/sultry enough for nighttime. I like very girly scents, so maybe that's why it reads more daytime to me. It's sexy in a subtle, masculine way, but not ostentatious, so definitely work-appropriate. This has a cold-weather feel, but would be good to wear in the last hot days of September as well.

Solstice Scents White Feather EDP Review

Brand: Solstice Scents
Availability: General Catalog, only available in Eau de Parfum, not perfume oil
Notes: Vanilla, Jasmine, Real Gardenia, Saffron, Sandalwood, Spices & More

First impression out of bottle: Super spicy and perfumey. Indoles, saffron, spice, and sour wood.

Freshly applied: Stinky, poopy indolic jasmine. Like flowers that have started to rot and turn brown. The spices and wood and incense are conspiring to smell like decaying wood. Very spicy and dank.

Drydown: All of a sudden, the dank rotten notes dissipate, and a breath of spicy, lush jasmine bursts forth. It is now a half and half hybrid of creamy jasmine illuminated by the moonlight and soft burning incense. The most exquisite gardenia note (SS's own handmade gardenia enfleurage) is helping the jasmine to be more gentle and lush. There is a sweet playful vanilla that plays around the edges of the incense but never takes over.

After several hours: Soft vanilla incense with a hint of the same gorgeous jasmine from earlier.

Photo via VTWiccan

Longevity: High
Sillage: Medium. After the initial strong burst, this very quickly becomes a medium-throw perfume. But even though I can't smell it that strongly, other people definitely smell it when passing by or hugging me. I receive a lot of compliments on this one. It also clings to clothing exceptionally well.

Photo via Solstice Scents

Would an [X] lover love this? A jasmine lover would love this, unless some of the notes went funky on their skin. As it is a bit poopy and stinky, this can morph into perfection or hell, depending on your skin chemistry. An incense lover would probably adore this, for a lighter floral take on incense.

Would an [X] hater love this? A jasmine hater would most likely not be converted by this. The only exception I can think is if they had smelled synthetic jasmines before and were put off by the bathroom cleaner ish vibe. Then they need to get a load of this. Incense haters might like this, as it avoids the heavy resin feel of some incense and focuses on the powdery, spa like aspect.

Where am I? Standing next to my parent's jasmine bush at twilight, smelling faint Japanese incense from the altar in the house. Or maybe standing in the doorway of a mountain temple hidden in the Himalayas. Either/or.

Where would I wear this? I have worn this out to dinner multiple times. I love it for that because it's kind of an intimate, romantic scent that does well in low light. I like it for work as well, but the initial smelly opening is NOT pleasant, so I have to be extra careful not to apply it fresh around other people. I will usually spritz it on outside and let it chill out for 1-2 minutes before entering someone else's space. I find it to be a scent that works well in cold weather, as the romantic spiciness makes me feel cozy, as well as hot weather, when you feel like you're constantly sweating. It's one of those scents that melds with your (ugh) body odor to make you smell sultry and hot.

NAVA Santalum Review

Brand: Nocturne Alchemy
Availability: Limited Edition (Studio Limited collection, not seasonal but once sold out, it's gone)
Notes: This is the beautiful Sandalwood imported from Alexandria infused with all Egyptian components: coconut husk, golden amber accords, golden Sandalwood resin, deep fossilized amber, golden Himalayan Cedarwood, gold Patchouli and a teardrop of golden Frankincense

First impression out of bottle: Deep spicy wood

Freshly applied: Almost animalic in its spiciness, resiny, woody. Strong like you walked into a shop that had a bunch of freshly chopped or polished wood. The spiciness is a bit over the top here. It's a blend of masculine and feminine.

Very dark, spicy sandalwood

Drydown: The spiciness calms down, and a deep golden note appears. It's warm, resinous, glowing. Like a pool of resin sliding over the heart of a tree. If this were a color it would be deep golden brown.

Slightly lighter, smoother, and less spicy sandalwood

After several hours: Same as the drydown, only it becomes fused with my skin scent so I can't tell where I end and Santalum begins. Truest deep sandalwood. No sawdust, no plastic, no vanilla, no sweetness besides what is naturally there. I never smell the patchouli as a standalone note. It is probably working its magic behind the scenes, but it never comes forth as a major player.

Longevity: High, I can smell this on my skin, hair, and clothing for days
Sillage: High, and even after it settles into a "skin scent" it's still very prominent and assertive

Would an [X] lover love this? Yes, a sandalwood lover needs this, no bones about it. It's the Ultimate Sandalwood.

Would an [X] hater love this? Maybe, maybe not. It's gorgeous but it's a truly true sandalwood. If you don't like the smell of wood or spicy wood in particular, this might be the one to change your mind, but it might reinforce what you hate about it.

Where am I? A temple built of sacred sandalwood, surrounded by glowing light and beautiful meditative stillness.

Where would I wear this? I truly do wear this for all occasions. It's a scent that both calms and energizes me. I find it appropriate for a sexy nighttime feel and a more subtle daytime vibe. It's unisex and though it's not my SO's style I can see this working equally well on a man or a woman.

NAVA Remiel Review

Brand: VApothecary
Availability: General Catalog
Notes: Sacred resin and incense of Rosewood, White Patchouli Leaves and Violet-honey

First impression out of bottle: Bright, green, a bit powdery but not in a makeup way, more in a floral way.

Freshly applied: This White Patchouli is interesting. It’s herbal and minty but it lacks the dank dirtiness I’m accustomed to with most patchouli. This is overall more fresh than I was expecting. It smells like fresh green leaves with a hint of sappy sweetness. Not as woodsy as I had hoped it would be.

Drydown: This turns into a really nice sweet rosewood scent. There something oddly cologne-y about this, which is weird because it’s SWEET. I can’t wrap my mind fully around it, but it's sweet yet masculine. A bit like aftershave. It’s still got this grassy green feel which I don’t care for. The honey is grassy-honey, nice and not too powdery (especially considering there’s violet in there) but I think the grassy note is just rubbing me the wrong way.

After several hours: More of the same. I don't love this. I wish the rosewood was more prominent and the green leafiness less so!

Longevity: Medium-high.
Sillage: Medium-high. Really reminds me of a masculine aftershave or something.

Would an [X] lover love this? There's not much in here I can identify as prominent. Overall I'd say it's a bright but woodsy masculine blend. If you like colognes but not aquatics, this could be good.

Would an [X] hater love this? There are a few notes in this which definitely give some people issues: honey, violet, and patchouli. It's a little soapy, and sappy, and green. I don't know. This one was not so great on me, and I sometimes have issues with all three of these notes. Proceed with caution.

Where am I? Giving a ceremonial bath to a fallen angel or something.

Where would I wear this?  I wouldn't. If I did...work, daytime, spring, summer.