What's That Smell? BERGAMOT

In the "What's That Smell?" series,  I'll explain some of the less obvious perfume notes that crop up in many indie perfumes. Keep in mind my descriptions and comparisons are based on my own experiences and your impressions may not be the same. Perfume notes are NOT ingredients. They can be natural essences, artificial isolated compounds that imitate the natural substance, blended accords, or a combination. Therefore, the note you like in one perfume may be unrecognizable in another. As with all sensory, subjective things, your mileage may vary.

Bergamot is a famous perfume component, one of the trustiest top notes around. It's super versatile, pleasant, and well-liked. It's a citrus fruit whose scent lies somewhere between sweet and bitter, with a scent profile that's not as sour as lemon and not as sweet or heavy as orange. In terms of balance, it's probably like a hybrid of the sourness of lime and the sweetness of grapefruit, but it has its own distinctive aroma that isn't exactly either of those, especially as it contains a zesty spicy note that smells more herbaceous than fruity.

Bergamot is used to tame notes that smell strange upon first application, and it dissipates more quickly, revealing heavier notes which have now had time to mature on the skin and become something more pleasant to smell. Bergamot is bright, spicy, sunny note. Imagine the green-spiciness of basil, crossed with the puckering brightness of lime, crossed with a delectable orange, and you have bergamot. If you've ever sniffed or drank Earl Grey tea, bergamot is the addition that makes it stand apart from plain black teas.

Bergamot is all-purpose. It can be used very lightly so as not to overpower delicate florals, but it's hearty enough to stand up to viscous scents like vanilla, or assertive dominant scents like woodsy notes. In small quantities, you'd never notice its presence (but you'd miss it if it were gone!) but in large quantities, it can be lovely and complex. Out of all the citrus fruits, it probably has the most complex and most versatile scent.

Perfumes featuring bergamot:

• NAVA Frangipani Nokturne: Frangipani, plumeria, and lilac are all somewhat heavy, sweet florals that can veer into sickly-sweet territory if not reined in. If you've smelled a tourist shop in Hawai'i, you know what these notes smell like. Bergamot and a light Egyptian musk temper the blend and make it more smooth and palatable. The bergamot isn't apparent as an assertive citrus note, it just lends a fresh green feel that makes this more of a natural jungle scent than a gift shop one.
• NAVA St. Germaine: Bergamot is used literally here, as a modifier to the black tea, to yield the same effect as a real cup of Earl Grey. The smoky tea and the sweet cream are tempered by the bright and spicy bergamot, giving an overall masculine or unisex feel. Although Earl Grey is an expected use of bergamot, it's clear why this is such a popular combination.
• Solstice Scents Edge of the Night (or the Night series in general): In the Night series, Solstice Scents has crafted a traditional Oriental scent with a musk,, resinous, spiced vanilla base and riffed on it. Bergamot is only a small ingredient in the "Night" base, which has a perfectly-melded, indescribably complex scent. Bergamot shows its versatility in these thicker, sweeter fragrances because it "lifts" the notes out of potential heaviness and gives them an ethereal feel they wouldn't have otherwise.

What's That Smell? VETIVER

In the "What's That Smell?" series,  I'll explain some of the less obvious perfume notes that crop up in many indie perfumes. Keep in mind my descriptions and comparisons are based on my own experiences and your impressions may not be the same. Perfume notes are NOT ingredients. They can be natural essences, artificial isolated compounds that imitate the natural substance, blended accords, or a combination. Therefore, the note you like in one perfume may be unrecognizable in another. As with all sensory, subjective things, your mileage may vary.

Vetiver is a grass-like plant that is often used to lend freshness, earthiness, or an overall "green" feel to a perfume. It is a unisex scent, and common in green perfumes that are focused on a plant-like or floral vibe. It can also be used to add surprising depth to sweeter or resinous perfumes, as it has a very natural and easy-to-like scent that is less disruptive or distinctive than something like patchouli. Vetiver is often used in smoky perfumes to evoke the unique mixture of damp heat that comes from a burning wood fire. Because it has a scent profile that straddles the line of light and dark, it stands up to stronger notes like incense and wood without getting lost the way a light floral scent would.

Vetiver is closest in scent to damp grass mixed with a tiny bit of soil. It's not a sunny, dry grass smell like hay. It definitely has darker earthy nuances, which is why it's such a nice blender for lighter green perfumes. Vetiver is less zesty than the smell of fresh flower stems (which can have a sour, bright smell) and it lacks the sweetness of something like fresh mint leaves. Because it has a soil-like quality, it can also be used to complement or recreate a wet-stone feeling

Perfumes featuring vetiver:

• NAVA OM NA: Eternity: The vetiver is not the star player here, but a backup to the sage note. This is sort of a surprising use of the note, because you wouldn't think to mix it with something as sweet and creamy as coconut milk, but it works. It doesn't fight with the more gourmand coconut notes, but it cuts the fatty sweetness and gives a little fresh feeling. It complements the sage, which is another herbal/green smell without overpowering the sage's more distinctive scent. Mixed with the heavy Dragon's Blood, it definitely makes me think of a dark, damp stone temple filled with offerings to the gods.
• Deconstructing Eden Gentian House: A very masculine and fresh use of the note, this scent features vetiver strongly and uses it excellently as an atmospheric note. Instead of smelling like a handful of plants, the vetiver in Gentian House conjures the image of a house in a field with all the windows and doors thrown open, the scent of wet grass and earth drifting in and purifying the home. The lavender and violets are both herbaceous/green floral scents that complement the vetiver well, and the smoke in here is also a classic pairing. This is probably the most unusual AND harmonious use of vetiver of any perfume in my collection.
• Long Winter Farm Campfire: This is a standard, but excellent example of how well vetiver works to make smoke notes come alive. You know that smell of the winter air, just after the rain/snow when the whole world is soaked-through, and you can smell everyone's chimneysmoke? That's what vetiver and smoke smell like together. It's one of my all-time favorite IRL scents, and Campfire recreates it spectacularly. No sweetness or florals in here, just a roaring fire in the middle of a damp forest.

Deconstructing Eden Black No. 1 Review

Brand: Deconstructing Eden
Availability: General Catalog
Notes: Milk white skin, a haze of clove cigarette smoke, burning leaves and the blackest patchouli in my collection

First impression out of bottle: Spiced smoke

Freshly applied: Sweet smoke, spice, and patchouli

Drydown: Man I love how almost JUICY the patchouli is in here. I never thought I'd enjoy such a strong patch note but I do. It's altered by the haze of clove smoke (it REALLY does smell hazy!) and it almost starts to smell like those spiced pinecones that people decorate with in the wintertime. A little green and resiny, a little spicy and brown. I was expecting a much drier scent than this. It's sweet and dark and a bit fresh, but also a little spicy. It's not as smoky as you'd expect- more like toasted cloves than real smoke.

After several hours: FACCCCKKK. I understand it now. I *get* patchouli, completely and entirely. I feel like this scent is 80% patchouli, but it's delicate, juicy, like a crushed green leaf. There's a bit of clove and spice, but really it's all just ephemeral ingredients writhing around the patchouli and conspiring to make it smell absolutely glorious.

Wet, wonderful patchouli

Longevity: High
Sillage: High

Would an [X] lover love this? A patchouli lover would be like YEAH BUDDY and bathe in this.

Would an [X] hater love this? A patchouli hater would smell this and be like WAIT A MINUTE, IS THAT YOU, PATCHOULI? Everyone needs to try this.

Where am I? Heading home from a death metal concert by way of a dark forest path after a rainstorm.

Where would I wear this? I love the juicy earthiness, so I would absolutely wear this during the day. To me it's so green it doesn't read sexy/nighttime but for a man, it might be. I prefer sweeter scents for night wear, but this is a year-round one for me.

Possets Mayan Queen Bloodletting Sacrifice Review

Brand: Possets
Availability: Limited Edition (Possets RETOUR)
Notes: Incense smoke, copal resin, red fruit rich in iron scent, and the background of cacao and jungle atmosphere of greenery.

First impression out of bottle: EEP! Strong like sharp red fruit (almost like beets mixed with tomatoes mixed with strawberries? like a hipster juice made of these.) 

Sharp red fruit

Freshly applied: Yeah this smells like beets and a hint of iron (a gritty smell, not like blood but a bit rusty.) It smells like spicy greenery too, like a tomato plant. A hint of sweetness.

Drydown: Strong sweet beet juice, green like you pressed some of the leaves along with the root itself. A little tart and bright, very vegetal, like a raw smoothie/juice. There’s a bit of gritty cacao. I ADORE THIS. It’s super weird and super oddball and yet I love it. 

Sweet, spicy beet juice with some greenery

After several hours: The smoke is coming out heavily now, along with the incense. Oh man this really feels like the opening/initial drydown was the bloodletting, and this is like a few hours after the ceremony, when the priest comes in to clean up the mess and blow out all the candles. Gorgeous and sexy in a dirty way. I’m not a person who likes weird/unwearable scents, but this hits ALL the right unusual/beautiful notes. 

Smoky extinguished candle scent emerges

Longevity: High
Sillage: Medium/high- If I smell my wrist, it's all raw beet juice and smoke, but from a distance, I keep catching this sensual, weird sweet scent and then realizing, it's me! I love how this wafts. It's gentler from a distance.

Would an [X] lover love this? This is one you just have to try. If you loved Eternal Return from Sixteen92, you will like this I think. There's a hint of beet in E.R. and here it's front and center. Urgh. So good. 

Would an [X] hater love this? I hate green scents, and this is like all the good things about green with none of the bad things. It smells like a wild jungle and oozing bloody beets, but not grassy or cologne-y. The smoke and incense are woven very subtly into the mix, and it's all just perfect. But like I said, this is one you just have to try. You'll never know until you sample. 

Where am I? Either a hipster juice bar, or maybe like Dwight Schrute's kitchen after he juices some beets. 

Where would I wear this? I'm wearing it at work right now, but I’d definitely wear this out at night, maybe for a girls’ night when I want men to leave me alone and I want to smell powerful.

Deconstructing Eden Blanc Review

Brand: Deconstructing Eden

Availability: Formerly permanent, now discontinued, but she may bring it back (you can also check with owner to see if she can sell you even though it's not listed in store)
Notes: White musks, white mint, white jasmine and linden blossoms

First impression out of bottle: The sweetest, earthiest mint, like crushed peppermint leaf in a dewy garden

Freshly applied: Sweet white mint, like minty tea. Then I get a touch of sweet green from the linden blossoms. It never gets that honeyed scent that Possets' linden gets on me, which almost has a sticky pollen feel. This is a clean, refreshing, lightly floral blend with an eensy touch of jasmine. The swirling musks make me think of morning mist or fog, they are not powdery or perfumey, but rather kind of damp and natural.

Minty, misty morning

Drydown: The mint is halway between candied mint and freshly-crushed garden mint. The juicy greenness makes it feel like earth/a garden without actual dirt or grass notes. Someone on IMAM told me they got hardly any mint from this, which I was bummed about, but I'm so happy that it's mostly mint on me.

Love the earthy, cool mint character

After several hours: A whisper of minty musk. 

Longevity: Very bad. This scent disappears on me but I just spritz more on because I'm obsessed with it. I wish it lasted longer.
Sillage: Quite low after the first few minutes. It lingers a little on hair and clothing, and I need to spray liberally to get good throw, but as I noted above, the longevity leaves a lot to be desired. These are all very faint notes, so you can't expect the potency you'd get from a spicy oriental, but STILL. I want it to stick around longer. 

Would an [X] lover love this? I think this is a highly unusual scent and basically everyone should try it if it becomes permanent again. A mint lover might adore it (hello, I do) but other people say they don't get much mint. So it's kind of a toss up.

Would an [X] hater love this? I think a mint hater could come around to this, as it's a very faithful representation of realistic mint. Also musk haters need to try it, as this is some of the best musk blending I've ever smelled. Not powdery, grandma-ish, or cloying.

Where am I? It makes me think of Cinderella trudging home in the morning mist after the ball, her bare foot squelching in the fresh garden herbs, and a single sparkling glass slipper.

Where would I wear this? I love wearing this during the day, especially on hot days. It's no use wearing it to bed as it disappears almost before I fall asleep, but I find it to be a super elegant but fun daytime scent. Very youthful but not childish.

Solstice Scents Shadows in the Night Review

Brand: Solstice Scents
Availability: General Catalog
Notes: White Amber, Fir, Frankincense, Elemi, Bayberry, Spruce, Amber, Evergreens, Peppermint, Incense, EotN Base

First impression out of bottle: Spruce and something soft and sweet

Freshly applied: The peppermint blends seamlessly with the evergreen notes and I love the sweet, almost fruity feel. It's not a harsh or cold pine scent, it's quite gentle.

Evergreen and bayberry

Drydown: A little less of the round fruity sweetness, more spruce emerges, like you're taking a big whiff of a Christmas tree. But the roundness in the background (which is definitely from the amber and vanilla from the Edge of the Night base) remains and gets a little spicier., but not too literal. This is not foodie, but the gentle vanilla and spice smell like the memory of baked goods.

Quite a gentle pine scent

After several hours: Less green, more soft Edge of the Night (amber, vanilla, spice). Peppermint is a fleeting note, so I'm not surprised it doesn't stick around. The evergreen notes last longer, and though they're not as prominent, the whole thing is still an evergreen-amber. Not pure sweetness, because there's green edge.

Warm golden Christmas tree scent, the faint smell of baked goods

Longevity: A little short-lived, better than bright/grassy green scents, but still not as long-lasting as a sugary vanilla scent. When I wear this I find myself reapplying it, because I love the opening/first hour or two of the scent so much that I want to experience it over and over.
Sillage: Medium-high at first, then low for the majority of its life. I can slather this on and still get a pretty subtle scent. 

Would an [X] lover love this? I think people who are a fan of evergreen scents will like this softer, more feminine take on what is traditionally a masculine family of scents. I personally like everything that Solstice Scents does with amber/vanilla/spice, but I have heard multiple people claim the sweeter blends smell like Christmas candles on them. 

Would an [X] hater love this? Yes, this is a great introduction for a green-hater. I personally count myself as someone who doesn't like vegetal/green scents, so this was a good way to ease my way into the wintry evergreen scents without feeling like I was wearing Winter's Breeze For Men or something. If you like foodie scents and don't see yourself loving woodsy or green ones, try this and you might be surprised how well the spruce notes are incorporated!

Where am I? This is not a foodie scent, but it does remind me of my parents' house at Christmas. A bit of spicy pine cone and spruce from the decorations, mingled with a soft sweet smell like a really high-end fruitcake. This smells like the cold air outside mixed with the warmth from the fire, a Christmas tree, spicy decorative pinecones, and a spread of Christmas cookies in the other room. I adore this scent.

Where would I wear this? I wear this to work and at home. I wear it a lot during the summer actually, although it's also fantastic for the wintertime. I find it's versatile even though it's so Christmassy. The fresh green notes make it light enough for hot weather, and the fact that it's subtle means nobody is sniffing the air and asking why it smells like Christmas.

NAVA OM NA: Eternity Review

Brand: Nocturne Alchemy

Availability: General Catalog
Notes: desert sage, softened resin of vetiver, the scent of temple grass, black coconut milk and husk, dragon's breath incense and white benzoin liquid resin of the netherworld

First impression out of bottle: Dank grassiness

Freshly applied: Grassy from the vetiver at first. The sage is there, giving that herbal nose tickle but the vetiver is front and center. I get almost the dark damp quality you can get with patchouli, only without the rubbery potential. This is a very WET sage scent. Not a smudge stick, no burning or ash, just like an offering of sage and herbs that has been rained on. No coconut yet.

Damp, fresh herb bundles

Drydown: As it dries, I get some black/dark coconut, and the blend sweetens a tad. Light on the incense, definitely not a burn-y or smoky smell. Wet and dark and twisted, like the inner tunnels of an ancient temple. There’s no stone notes, but it absolutely reminds me of being inside ancient tombs when I visited Egypt. Cold. Interesting and beautiful. And I also start getting another coconut note, milky and white, to go with the black husk note from before.

Black coconut husk joins the wet sage

After several hours: The more I smell it, the more I love the paradox of the milky sweet coconut and the wet-smelling sage. It’s not like food or like anything I’d immediately deem attractive…but it’s kind of addictive and weird and pleasant in an unusual way. At first it was so grassy and cold but now it’s warmed up with the benzoin and the coconut, so I think it will layer fantastically with a sweeter or woodsy scent.

Sweet, pure coconut milk lightens up the dark, earthy blend

Longevity: High, as with most NAVAs. This is a morpher though, and the ultimate drydown described above is what lasts most of the day.
Sillage: High, which may be an issue as it's quite strange-smelling at first. It settles into something much more pleasant. Maybe don't apply this at your desk, though.

Would an [X] lover love this? I don't even know how to classify this scent, so...would a sage lover like this? I'd say YES unless they only like "dry" smelling sage. This is rich, a bit grassy, herbal, and dark. It's unusual for sure, but I think people who like sage are usually pretty adventurous.

Would an [X] hater love this? Would a sage hater love this? Maybe! I did not like it when freshly applied, but it has this uncanny fascinating moreish smell, where you just want to keep sniffing. It's rather addictive and surprisingly wearable. I'd say give this a spin even if you are a coconut or sage hater.

Where am I? When I wear this, I feel totally transported to a damp ancient temple. I smell hanging plants and offerings of herbs and sweet coconut, and the hint of incense.

Where would I wear this? I probably wouldn't wear this out to dinner, it's not a sexy date type of scent. I would wear this if I wanted to go for a long walk by myself, or maybe at work on a day when I needed to be focused and feel strong. It's kind of a subtle "power scent" because it has a pleasant sweetness but a strong backbone.

Blooddrop Jade Review

Brand: Blooddrop
Availability: General Catalog
Notes: white amber, matcha powder, vanilla, sandalwood, cyclamen, fern, and green tea

First impression out of bottle: Mostly fern, which is a slightly earthier green note than grass. More like moss, a bit dirty and mucky and fuzzy.

Freshly applied: Still mostly fern, with some green tea poking out now. More citrusy than it ought to be, considering matcha is a dusty, earthy smell with no "brightness." This is almost a soapy green tea, like the kind of green tea you get in a body wash.

Drydown: The cyclamen shows its pale face as it dried down. Cyclamen is kind of a watery, fresh floral that smells a lot like tulips, daffodil, or somewhat like hyacinth. A bit juicy and more green in character than a rose, for instance, which smells very pink. It all ends up smelling like crushed flower stems, combined with a soft sweetness from the amber/vanilla. 

After several hours: Same green, soft floral. Like a flower shop. Not at all the matcha scent I would have hoped for. It's beautiful for a fresh green floral.

Longevity: excellent, especially considering its light nature. Watery florals aren't usually long-lasting but this lasts 5+ hours.
Sillage: See longevity, this has much higher sillage than I'm accustomed to from fresh florals.

Would an [X] lover love this? I think any lover of fresh or green fragrances would love this. It's not heavy on the floral notes, so people who don't like "girly" scents would definitely enjoy it. It's not masculine though, just a lovely fresh green scent.

Would an [X] hater love this? I'm a fresh/aquatic "hater" and I don't love this. It doesn't tip me over or change my mind. It smells like a beautiful rendition of what it's meant to be, and I'm not here for it. I miss my luxurious, obnoxious heavy florals.

Where am I? I definitely feel like I'm in a flower shop that specializes in very stately, green bouquets. No riotous color, lots of trailing ferns and pale petals.

Where would I wear this? I don't wear stuff like this myself, but I imagine it would be an awesome work scent or something to wear during yoga or your morning walk. (YOUR morning walk, the only morning walk I do is a zombie shuffle from my bed to my bathroom.)